The International Cessna 170 Association

My experience has been that the majority of local FBOs use a battery cart without a disconnect device. Crude, I admit. However if the external power receptacle is connected as designed, no power will be able to flow until the cord is firmly connected.

I know what you mean, Dick, but the IPC for the 170 has a direct connection between the AN-2552 and the battery. A "hot" ground-power source will immediately have access to the ship's battery just as if a car was "jumpered" to the aircraft battery.

I don't have a problem with that, but I installed my AN-2552 receptacle so I'd have a quick and easy method to charge my aircraft battery and/or to supply power in the hangar without discharging the aircraft battery, so I'm usually just hooking up a battery charger thru a AN-2551.

(In fact, I bought a really nice set of 16' long auto battery jumper cables, cut the clamps off one end and installed a AN-2551 on the cut-off end. Sure makes it simple, whether i want to charge the ship's battery, or if I wanted to "jump-start" it at some remote location. Simply plug the AN-2551 to the ground service AN-2552 receptacle, and clamp the battery-clamps to a car/truck or ground-power unit.)

Even if I had a handy AN-2552-1, or -2 (with small third-pin) I wouldn't feel the need to suffer the expense and complexity of adding the necessary solenoids to make the third-pin operable. (I believe that third-pin was intended to give operational control of the ship's electrical system to trained and qualified ground-service personnel. Where do you find THOSE kind of kids at FBO's these days? )

gahorn wrote:The IPC calls for a AN-2552-2 plug, which has only two major prongs. The -3 plugs can also be used, just don't attach the 3rd plug to anything, (It normally provides an activation circuit which the 170 installation does not utilize.)

Paul, the AN 2551 plug is the FEMALE plug that is usually attached to the jumper-cable assembly, and plugs into the AN 2552 receptacle.
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Aircraft Spruce sells the AN-2552-3a plug for about $68. You will also need a mount bracket, and the cables, grounding strap, and two end-fittings, etc. to complete the installation, which is a minor alteration "in accordance with" Cessna dwgs.

"P108-12 Temporary Revision 1" of the Parts Catalog dated 27 January 1995 shows AN2552-3A to have replaced AN2552-2. The other change to that illustration in the parts catalog is the U-shaped bracket. It is now p/n 0513034-2 instead of 0513034-1.

Gary, that is because the -3a receptacle is the only one produced by Elcon (etc) these days, to meet newer aircraft designs. However, the electrical system drawing of the installation did not change and do not utilize the third pin of that superceded part number, and the earlier PN's are still valid until supplies are exhausted. In other words, until the installation drawings are changed to utilize the thrid pin, the -3a should be thought of as an acceptable substitute, rather than a "replacement".

A ground service plug was available on the 170 A. My 1949 170 A had an original factory mounted plug that was located in the same position just like George's with no third post or solonoid/solonoids. I also made my own service cable by putting a 2551 type plug on one end of as set of automotive jumper cables. Just as a point of interest, I purchased my 2551 type end to make the jumper cables from "Don Horn Aero Supply" in Memphis, but George has told me that they were not kin to him.

Harold

Now Harold, did George say he wasn't kin to them or did those folks deny any knowledge or relation to George I could understand it if they did so

Seriously, thanks for the data. I haven't done anything yet except having a friend pick up a new G-25S battery for me today so I can put it in next weekend. Mine worked three times Sat & twice Sunday, but was weak each time so I know its time to get the new one. This one is a bit over 2 yrs old. Some folks seem to get 3+ yrs from batteries, but 2-3 is about all I manage. Sure wish they had the reliability of automobile batteries. Maybe if the plane was flown as often as the automobiles they might last better. Hope you and Carolyn are doing OK & we will see you in Duluth.

170C wrote:Now Harold, did George say he wasn't kin to them or did those folks deny any knowledge or relation to George I could understand it if they did so ....

Ironically, my father was Don Horn. (no relation to the aviation supply house, tho'.)

HIs middle name was August, same as his Dad. His mother was Edna June Palmer, who went to school with President Woodrow Wilson's two daughters at Mrs. Fine's finishing school. She authored several poems which were published in Atlantic Monthly, probably because she courted a minor editor/linotypeman employed there, August Horn.

Frank-
Have you had your voltage regulator and reverse current relay checked out to make sure they are adjusted properly? My C-180 did the same thing you are describing until I had it checked and adjusted.

No Richard, I haven't done the voltage regulator & relay check. Not sure whodoes them or how to do so. Regarding the voltage regular, mine is a solid state one, but is most likely not the "official" one called for if you know what I mean.

Frank-
Not sure who does it either but I'm sure sombody knows a good generator/regulator guy in the DFW area. The guy who checked/adjusted mine in Alaska said the reverse current relay was adjusted wrong and was motoring the generator and draining the battery when it was below kick-in RPM. I don't really understand it but it sure made a difference after he adjusted it.

The reverse-current relay is described in the Electrical Systems Manual I wrote. It's easy to check, and easy to adjust. Frank, if you'll buy the beer we can check yours. (And I know you have the manual because you attended the TSP convention where it was given out to attendees. It's called a "battery relay" in the manual. At low engine RPM (below gen cut in/out speeds) it opens up to prevent the battery from discharging into the gen.)

I've never heard of anyone that will go to the lengths that George will to get someone else to buy the beer!

Thought I'd show what it looks like, with it's bracket:

Hi George, You wouldn't happen to know where to get the correct mounting bracket would you? The 170B I bought last summer has the receptacle installed with a different bracket up near the battery box. I would like to move it to the correct location, using the correct bracket. Thanks

I acquired some years ago and still have a few. The pic is of one of them.. made entirely of welded stainless. $22 plus shipping (Priority mail is $5.95.) You can buy one using PayPal to make payment to my email address:

gahorn146ys (at) hotmail (dot) com

Be certain to mention which address to send it to in your payment comments.