windshield and glass replacement

Curtis Brown · Post by **Curtis Brown** » Tue Nov 26, 2002 8:44 pm

Before I paint my plane I thought it would be wise to replace the windshield and perhaps the glass all around. My question is: How many hours labor would it take to replace the windshield. The windshields are not very expensive but I would think the cost is in the labor.
Curtis N1256D

Tom Downey · Post by **Tom Downey** » Wed Nov 27, 2002 11:16 pm

It's usually a 1 man 1 afternoon job.

Post by **GAHorn** » Thu Nov 28, 2002 2:42 am

It's been a long time, but I removed a 172 windshield by myself and cleaned up the surfaces, fit and trimmed the new windshield, but needed a helper making the final install. We didn't use self-locking rivets, but instead used MS screws and nylock nuts, so we needed two people, ...one to hold the screw and the other to tighten the nuts. If ordinary rivets are used it'll take two in order to buck the rivets.
Either way, it takes about 6 hours labor.

lowNslow · Post by **lowNslow** » Thu Nov 28, 2002 4:37 pm

The time will also vary with the amount of corrosion found. The windshield channels and under the bottom retaining strip are places you can find some serious corrosion.

Curtis Brown · Post by **Curtis Brown** » Thu Jan 16, 2003 6:16 pm

Okay, I am getting closer to this project. I am now wondering who I should buy the windshield from. I have a one piece untinted windshield now. It also seems very thin. I would like to have a thicker and tinted windshield, but I may not do all the side windows. Would it look bad to have a tinted windshield and clear windows.

Post by **GAHorn** » Thu Jan 16, 2003 7:19 pm

Tinted is a personal preference, but you should consider if you want the airplane ever to look original again. The original was never tinted. But it was a one-peice....with a center reinforcing strip.

flyguy · Post by **flyguy** » Fri Jan 17, 2003 12:09 pm

Great Bend Plastics is the supplier I have used in the past. Prices have no doubt escalated but dollar wise they were competetive. I don't have the address at hand but will assist finding it if needed.

George mentioned "tint" as being an operators choice. I would add that "thickness" is also an option. The original windshield was 1/8" thick thereby needing the aluminum center strip(IPC 051000-16) down the center (giving rise to the erroneous "two-piece" name). Any thickness windshield you buy can be tinted. If you select the 1/8"thickness you must use the support strip. It is the only thing that you have to drill off and re-rivet. If you order the 3/16" thickness you may opt to leave off the strip*. You may not be able to install the new windshield an easily without drilling off and re-riviting the lower strips but it "can" be done. Putting the new windshield in without removing the lower strips is a two man job, Much care should be taken on the last few mm of final seating to prevent fracturing the part.

Corrosion in between the mating surfaces will be less accessable if you do not remove the strips so how much corrosion there is present will determine your options. If it is minimal just clean it out the best you can, then apply some anti corrosion liquid and shoe horn the new windshield in place.

*May require field approval, stc or 337now. ??
One other note, If you opt for the thicker windshield and want to re-use the center strips you will have to reposition the rivet holes. They will not match up as before because of the thicker material.

OLE GAR

Curtis Brown · Post by **Curtis Brown** » Fri Jan 17, 2003 9:21 pm

Are the side windows really as ez to do as friends are telling me. I just thought I would only do the windshield. I do not have the center strip on the present windshield. It also looks to be the 1/8 thickness. It is a bit flemzy. I have also noticed it looks like some 170's have a slight convex appearance to their windshield. My looks to be a more straight down angle.

Post by **GAHorn** » Sat Jan 18, 2003 3:56 am

Side windows are so simple they are considered "preventive maintenance" and may be replaced by an owner/pilot. FAR 43, Appdx A.

zero.one.victor · Post by **zero.one.victor** » Sat Jan 18, 2003 6:16 am

A couple questions and comments.
1) What is the point of a thicker windshield? Is this supposed to be quieter?
2) I don't get the idea of a tinted windshield at all. If the sun's too bright,that's what sunglasses are for--and why they're removable.
3) Some of the so-called one piece windshields I've seen have a decidedly convex profile,like Curtis mentioned. I don't think the original center strips would fit on these at all.
4) I think the flatter-profile original windshield looks better.
5) I think they look better with the center strips.

Eric

flyer170 · Post by **flyer170** » Sat Jan 18, 2003 1:36 pm

George.... What is the procedure for replacing the side windows and are you talking about front and rear windows

For the rear windows it looks like I would have to pull all the rivits around them

Same for the front side windows

Where would be a good place to purchase side windows or can a person just cut their own using the old windows as templates

My side windows are tinted light green and the rear windows are very dark maybe from age

Bob

Post by **GAHorn** » Sat Jan 18, 2003 4:59 pm

Get a copy of the 100 Series Cessna Service Manual, 1962 and prior for the procedure. Any side window may be replaced by the owner/pilot including front and rear side windows. A windshield must be signed off by an A&P.

Curtis Brown · Post by **Curtis Brown** » Mon Jan 20, 2003 9:15 pm

Okay, now who makes the best windshield. I am about ready to buy one and I see I have lots of choices.
Thanks in advance!

Curtis

lowNslow · Post by **lowNslow** » Tue Jan 21, 2003 7:19 pm

Curtis Brown wrote:Okay, now who makes the best windshield. I am about ready to buy one and I see I have lots of choices.
Thanks in advance!
Curtis

I bought my windshield from LP who where very helpful. I went with the original shape with the 3/16" thickness and retained the center strip. This required an 337 approval and LP was very helpful in providing all the paperwork required to submit to the FAA. The windshield did take a bit more trimming to fit then I had hoped for - but using a Dremell tool with a cut of wheel worked great. Just take your time and only remove a little at a time until you get it to fit. As OLE GAR mentions the center strip required repositioning the rivet holes (I used screws and nuts) but since mine had a crack anyway I just spliced on a repair to fit.
I can't say the thicker material is any quieter, but it feels much stronger with much less flexing then the 1/8" windshield. I think this will provide better crack and bird strike protection. The Cessna 100 series repair manual has some good info if you don't have this.

Dave Clark · Post by **Dave Clark** » Thu Jan 23, 2003 1:25 pm

I'm about to install a new windshield I purchased from fellow member Bryan Ward. It's a Cee Bailey and believe me they are not very helpful with the paperwork. The one piece STC that should have come with the windshield didn't and I have finally managed to negotiate them down from $200 to $25 for the paperwork! They are idiots as business people. Also it takes bolts along the top and the LP Aero does not which is somewhat an advantage.

As far as making your own side windows it's real easy with a bandsaw and metal (fine) blade and then a belt sander for the edge smoothing. Very Very important to buy cast not extruded material. On the 180 I didn't know better and when the mask was pulled after the paintjob the new plex was revealed to have very fine line distortion. Bummer.

The International Cessna 170 Association

windshield and glass replacement

windshield and glass replacement

Tinted or clear, Thick or Thin

side windows