I can't find anywhere how tight to get my tailwheel swivel bolt.
The bolt I am talking about is the one that holds the bottom fork onto the assembly housing. The nut is the one directly above the tire. If I tighten it where I think it should be, it doesn't swivel as freely as I want. If I loosen it to where it swivels nicely it is a little too loose for me.
I can't find a torque anywhere in a book.
Has anybody out there ever messed with the bolt that hold the fork on before? If so how did you tighten it?
Does anybody have a torque value?
Scott 3200 Tailwheel
Moderators: GAHorn, Karl Towle, Bruce Fenstermacher
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Exploreit2
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2004 11:25 pm
Scott 3200 Tailwheel
Thank you,
JB-
N2837C 1954 170B
JB-
N2837C 1954 170B
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zero.one.victor
- Posts: 2271
- Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2002 12:11 am
I seem to recall that someone posted a tork spec,but I don't remember what it was. Seems like it would be different whether you have 3 little coil springs (like mine) or 5 inside the t/w assembly.
I tighten the kingpin nut ("shear nut") on mine until I can't hardly turn the tailwheel,then back it off one flat & safety it. Seems to work for me,but your results may vary. It's kind of a trial & error show.
Whe you say "if I loosen it to where it swivels nicely,it is a little too loose for me", exactly what do you mean? Does it then shimmy?As long as it doesn't shimmy,that nut is not too loose.
Or does it release too hard, or too easily? The release is actually controlled by the internal flat spring (p/n 3222) & flat spacers (p/n 3258 & 3258-1),pawl (p/n 3219),and the engagement of the flat spring into the notches in the steering arm (p/n 3214). Look at the exploded view of the Scott 3200 in a Spruce or Univair catalog for reference.
You might want to pull it all apart for a good cleaning & inspection,and to get a look at how it works. Sometimes a bit too much (or not enough) spring pressure or a slight burr on an part can have an adverse affect on how the thing works. Don't be surprised if you have to take it apart and/or adjust it more than once before it works to your satisfaction.
During & after reassembly,be sure it's got plenty of grease. My feeling is that if it ain't oozing,you didn't grease it enough.
Eric
I tighten the kingpin nut ("shear nut") on mine until I can't hardly turn the tailwheel,then back it off one flat & safety it. Seems to work for me,but your results may vary. It's kind of a trial & error show.
Whe you say "if I loosen it to where it swivels nicely,it is a little too loose for me", exactly what do you mean? Does it then shimmy?As long as it doesn't shimmy,that nut is not too loose.
Or does it release too hard, or too easily? The release is actually controlled by the internal flat spring (p/n 3222) & flat spacers (p/n 3258 & 3258-1),pawl (p/n 3219),and the engagement of the flat spring into the notches in the steering arm (p/n 3214). Look at the exploded view of the Scott 3200 in a Spruce or Univair catalog for reference.
You might want to pull it all apart for a good cleaning & inspection,and to get a look at how it works. Sometimes a bit too much (or not enough) spring pressure or a slight burr on an part can have an adverse affect on how the thing works. Don't be surprised if you have to take it apart and/or adjust it more than once before it works to your satisfaction.
During & after reassembly,be sure it's got plenty of grease. My feeling is that if it ain't oozing,you didn't grease it enough.
Eric
I got to looking at where my tailwheel cables exited the fuselage after reading last month's 170 News. Sure enough my cables were cutting into the metal. But what I found 
was that a certain individual had installed a Scott 3200A instead of just 3200 (thats how I remember it). This meant my ears where the cables connect above the wheel were too tall. No problem, I took piece off, heated it up, and beat the ears out flat instead of pointed up. Anyway after several adjustments and trials I found, like Eric, that tightening it up all the way (wheel won't turn by hand with tail lifted off ground) and then backing off 1 round worked best for me also.
was that a certain individual had installed a Scott 3200A instead of just 3200 (thats how I remember it). This meant my ears where the cables connect above the wheel were too tall. No problem, I took piece off, heated it up, and beat the ears out flat instead of pointed up. Anyway after several adjustments and trials I found, like Eric, that tightening it up all the way (wheel won't turn by hand with tail lifted off ground) and then backing off 1 round worked best for me also.