WASPS

How to keep the Cessna 170 flying and airworthy.

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170C
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WASPS

Post by 170C »

Keith, I am happy to report that as of mid day Friday, there are no wasps on your fuel tank sumps :D It may be that the rain is keeping them away today :mrgreen:
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Re: WASPS

Post by KG »

Thanks Frank!!

I found out I'm number 22 on the wait list for a hangar. At this rate I'll still be fighting the wasps this time next year.
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Re: WASPS

Post by 170C »

Well, maybe not. A lot of times when a hangar comes open they will contact the first folks on the list and occasionally they will go through several on the list before they find a taker. Folks sell their plane, move them elsewhere or stop flying. It might still take a year, but maybe not. I put my name on a list at several area airports prior to our selling our home in TX. I think it was in March of 2013. We hadn't sold our TX home, much less found one here. One day in August I received a call from Chad who asked me if I was still interested in a hangar. I went ahead and took mine hoping we could sell our house and find something in Murfreesboro. They didn't charge me hangar rent until I occupied the hangar in October. So go ahead and keep your name on several airport hangar lists, check with each of them every so often and go by and meet the manager. Its funny how sometimes your name gets moved up closer to the top.

I am sure you have looked around at the different airports and Murfreesboro is likely the one you prefer. Gallatin, Lebanon, Maury County (Columbia), Lawrenceburg, Tellahoma, Shelbyville, et al. Maybe you get one in one of those places and use it until one comes up here. Another possibility is to put a note on the bulletin boards that you are looking for a hangar. I found one on TX that I sub-leased until my name came up. Some airports don't permit sub-leasing, but a lot of it goes on with the plane owner just paying the person who actually has the hangar. Good luck!
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Re: WASPS

Post by GAHorn »

A hangar is certainly no obstacle to a wasp colony. Neither is my old standby WD40 after 30 days.

I've tried moth-balls hanging all around the airframe in tobacco/parts bags. Didn't work. (BTW, do you know how many moths you have to capture to fill up a tobacco-bag?) :lol:

A really good and pretty safe way to dispense with colonies of wasps, bees, etc.. is a spray of soapy water from a garden sprayer or sprayer attached to a garden hose filled with lots of laundry detergent. (But I'm warning you against using soap on a polished airplane. It's a degree of incompatibility.) They are not alarmed by the water and the soap's surfactant drowns them in short order and doesn't hurt most plants or most other objects.

I find mud dauber nests every annual. They were greatly reduced when I did away with a child's wading pool for the dog-yard. Nearby water is not good for stored airplanes.
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Re: WASPS

Post by Roesbery »

Wasps, yellow jackets, and hornets can be gotten rid of by using a piece of meat hung on a string just above a pan of soapy water. A paper plate or foil over the top to force them to fly low helped. Plain water will allow them to swim to the side and climb out. They will drown in the soapy water. Have had wash pans full of them. Do not know if it works on mud daubers or not. Also if you disrupt a nest in the ground and you or others are being stung, cover the hole with anything handy, rock, dirt, whatever. Seems like the ones flying lose the attack command when they are shut off from their nest. Have had several instances where that worked, stung multiple times before plugging the hole but not after the hole was plugged. So you do it ASAP.
When I used to pack people and their camp into the Sierras 40 plus years ago and the holes would be alongside the trail the first horse would knock some dirt into the hole, and out they would come. Then the rodeo was in full swing.
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Re: WASPS

Post by juredd1 »

My 3 year old son got stung 6 times and my wife 9 times by yellow jackets last summer while picking veggies from the garden, he wouldn't go back to the garden the rest of the year. I poured gas down hole and was very happy to light them up. Kind of tough on the trail in the Sierras but that works as well. :D

Now back to the plane, the daubers are the worst right now at my place. I really don't know what to do with them. Building nests above my wings on the ceiling joists and the mud balls falling down on the top of the wings, trying to build on the exterior of the wings themselves but ain't happening. Then there's the wood bees, drilling holes in the joists and all the dust and crap falling down on the plane. I need to fill their hole up with glue or something but expect they'd just drill out the other side.

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Re: WASPS

Post by 170C »

The carpenter bee traps work reasonably well, but there seems to be no perfect solution. Mud dobbers seem to love airplanes with all the dark holes to build in. I've heard some mention making a large pan of mud laced with
an insect poison that will help control them.
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Re: WASPS

Post by juredd1 »

Carpenter Bee Traps......how have I been around 44 years and never heard of that. I needs me one of those. Yep I'm going to buy that, much better than filling the holes with something and hope you kill them.

Thank ya sir.
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Re: WASPS

Post by DWood »

Carpenter Bee Traps....
When I had a log home in Tennessee I used a tennis racket for Carpenter Bees and it was hours of fun!
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Re: WASPS

Post by GAHorn »

The fix for a rash of "hangar wasps" is the exterminator service.
We had the guy come out and spray down the place with "Cy-kick" (cyfluthrin) and it really did the job.
This product is also available for amateur useage, but professionals are usually the better option.

Got rid of all wasps, spiders, crawly-bugs, etc. and is persistent but not harmful after it dries to pets/people.
He recommended a 6-mo retreatment, but winter might not require it, in my experience.

From their website:
How Cy-Kick CS Works

The active ingredient in Cy-Kick CS is Cyfluthrin, a synthetic pyrethroid that attacks the central nervous system of target pests. Made to mimic the effects on insects of naturally occurring pyrethrum, man-made cyfluthrin has the advantage of remaining effective for up to 3 months. SmartCap Technology means Cy-Kick CS stands up to porous and highly absorbent surfaces such as concrete, while the polymer shell protects the active ingredient making it readily available to pests. When sprayed, Cy-Kick CS creates a thick barrier of microcapsules that is impossible for insects to cross without being exposed to a lethal dose of insecticide. Exposed insects pick up microcapsules on their hairs and body, triggering a rapid release of the active ingredient, resulting in death. Though Cy-Kick CS is tough on insects, it is very gentle on people and pets when used correctly.

Target Insects

A wide variety of structural pests including ants, bed bugs, cockroaches, earwigs, fleas, millipedes, mosquitoes, scorpions, spiders, wasps, bees, and yellowjackets

INSECTS CONTROLLED: Ants, Asian Lady Bugs, Bed Bugs, Bees, Boxelder Bugs, Cadelles, Carpenter Ants, Carpenter Bees, Carpet Beetles, Centipedes, Chocolate Moths, Cigarette Beetles, Clover Mites, Cluster Flies, Cockroaches, Crickets, Darkling Beetles, Dermestids, Drugstore Beetles, Earwigs, Elm Leaf Beetles, Fire Ants, Firebrats, Fleas, Flies, Flour Beetles, Grain Weevils, Grasshoppers, Hide Beetles, Hornets, House Flies, Indian Meal Moths, Larder Beetles, Lesser Grain Borers, Lesser Mealworms, Loopers, Mediterranean Flour Moths, Merchant Grain Beetles, Mealworms, Millipedes, Mosquitoes, Psocids, Rice Weevils, Sawtoothed Grain Beetles, Scorpions, Silverfish, Sowbugs, Spiders, Springtails, Stable Flies, Stored Product Pests, Termites, Ticks, Yellowjackets, Warehouse Moths, Wasps, Wood Wasps, Wood-Infesting Borers and Beetles


More complete info for do it yourselfers:
http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/cykic ... sub_id=575
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Re: WASPS

Post by 170C »

Justin, I agree with George that a treatment by a professional exterminator is likely to give you the best results. If you want to try the carpenter bee trap option, you will likely find them at a farmers co-op. That is were I got mine, but Lowe's or Home Depot might have them. Go on line and look up carpenter bees and you can see a couple of traps. I think they put something in the traps that attract the bees, but my trap still catches some each season and its a couple of yrs old. Most likely the traps need to be put out early in the spring?
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Re: WASPS

Post by GAHorn »

170C wrote:Justin, I agree with George that a treatment by a professional exterminator is likely to give you the best results. If you want to try the carpenter bee trap option, you will likely find them at a farmers co-op. That is were I got mine, but Lowe's or Home Depot might have them. Go on line and look up carpenter bees and you can see a couple of traps. I think they put something in the traps that attract the bees, but my trap still catches some each season and its a couple of yrs old. Most likely the traps need to be put out early in the spring?
Are you still getting a good price from that guy for those you've exporting to Arkansas all these years?
'53 B-model N146YS SN:25713
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An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons. ;)
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Re: WASPS

Post by 170C »

Checks come in every month :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
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Re: WASPS

Post by juredd1 »

When I gets my traps set up I'm going to personally export my own captured beasts back to Tennessee where I have conveniently learned they come from, somewhere around Murfreesboro I think. :wink:
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Re: WASPS

Post by 170C »

Appreciate the thought Justin, but we have no lack of the bees here during their season 8O I spent virtually 70 yrs in west & north central TX and never encountered carpenter bees anywhere but at our place just immediately west of Fort Worth. The ones here in middle TN seem to be in abundance. Not sure what their enemy is, but would like to know.
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