Replace rudder return springs?

[Kyle Wolfe]

During my current annual, we found a few broken strands on the rudder cable - so obviously we're replacing those cables. My mechanic asked that I also pose the question "should the rudder return springs be replaced too when replacing the rudder cables?"

Thoughts? I've searched the historical messages. Lots of comments about how hard they are, but can't find anything on when to replace. Just wait till one breaks?

Thanks in advance.

[mit]

yep.

[doug8082a]

If you haven't had any break yet in the 50-odd years of the plane's life, I'd say they are due. Might as well do it now. That, combined with the new rudder cables, would eliminate any potential/future problems with the rudder control system (barring, of course, anything to do with the pedals, belcrank or other associated "fixed" hardware).

[Mike Smith]

I just found one of my rudder return springs broken during my annual. I am going to replace both of them ... once I find out where to get two. Sacramento Sky Ranch said they didn't have any. Aircraft Spruce said the one (only one in stock) they had wasn't a cessna part and may only for experimental aircraft.

Sooo, does anyone know where a guy might find two of these little critters? And, is there a different part number from the one in the IPC? (for reference, the PN's are: 0310196-4 & -3 for the left and right) The other question - is there really a difference between the left and right spring?

Any help will be appreciated

[N1478D]

There is a difference between the two springs. I bought mine from the local Cessna dealer, Van Bortels in Arlington. No problem for them to order the two springs, one was in the $8 range and the other in the $15 range if I remember right. If you don't have a local source, am sure that Van Bortels would ship to you.

[lowNslow]

Both of these are in stock at:

http://www.iwantcessnaparts.com

0310196-3 is $23.29 the 0310196-4 is $6.18. Why the big difference I don't know, one is a little longer but basically the same spring.

[Kyle Wolfe]

Replaced them both during the annual and rudder cable replacement. Not sure what my FBO will charge, but they sure do make a difference.

Bottom line, if you get a chance to replace them you probably should.

Thanks for the direction.

[Indopilot]

While spending quality time in that area, its always a good idea to clean the area around the brake master cylinder bracket attachment bolts and check for cracks in the support rib. Some times you can get by with large area washers if you catch any cracks early enough. For what its worth. Brian

[GAHorn]

Hill Aircraft (A genuine Cessna distributor) has them in inventory

0310196-3 SPRING
(List Price: $ 28.40) Stock Available $ 24.14 (EA)
0310196-4 SPRING
(List Price: $ 7.92) Stock Available $ 6.73 (EA)


Parts Dept.#: 404-505-2074 | Fax#: 404-696-3922 | Toll Free#: 1-800-998-7832

[Mike Smith]

We just finished installing the rudder return spring today. What a bear it can be!

We finally got it attached this way: we attached the forward end of the spring to the airplane. On the aft end of the spring we looped some safety wire about 14-18 inches long. At the other end we wrapped the wire around the handle of a large screwdriver (you could use anything that would give you a good grip to pull on). We then pulled the spring with one hand (on the handle of the screwdriver) and used the other hand up in the hole to push the aft end of the spring into the hole of the rudder arm. It also helps to have someone pushing on the appropriate rudder (from inside the cockpit) to lessen the distance needed to strech the spring.

Sound simple? It was challenging but it worked. I just thought I'd send in "our way" of solving the problem.

Cheers,

[N170BP]

I did mine the same way (tied a big loop of safety wire on the
aft end of the springs, so you'd have something to grab onto
and pull on).

Eric Taylor (zero.one.victor) posted a good idea, which is to
remove the bolts at the rudder horn/bellcrank at the back of the airplane.

That way, you can hook the springs up front (relatively easily) and
go to the back and yank on the rudder cable ends to match up
with the rudder control horn/bellcrank (at least you've got something
out in the open you can grab onto, and you can see what the bloody
h_ll you're doing!).

[zero.one.victor]

Mike, sounds like you were working up thru the hole in the belly of the airplane? My 48 model (and the later models too, I assume) has a pair of holes in the tunnel between the pilot's & copilot's feet, coincidentally in the exact right spot to facilitate installing the rudder springs. How about that!
In between working thru those holes, and disconnecting the rudder cables back at the rudder bellcrank, I had a pretty easy time of it replacing my rudder springs.
I wrote a little article about this that was in the Q2/04 170 News.

Eric

[Mike Smith]

Yes, I was working thruogh the hole in the belly of the airplane. The holes from the cabin side weren't big enough to get a hand through (I have an "A" model). I wish I had seen that idea of releaseing the cables from the tailwheel end of the airplane - that sounds ALOT easier!

[Kyle Wolfe]

A follow up question - at the 4 year mark I had to replace a rudder cable due to a broken strand. Just bad luck or is there something that may be causing this to be recurring?

It's the cable on the left co-pilot rudder that's got the broken strand. It's occuring far aft. Pulleys were replaced 4 years ago and are turning freely. Nothing obvious that's causing this.

Other's thougths on what to look for or possible causes? We're at a loss - it's baffling.....

[Mike Smith]

silly question maybe, but were the cables replaced at the same time as the pulley? If not, they might just be wearing due to age.