The International Cessna 170 Association

They measure 11" even but they are not square to the floor skin. If you measure along the floor skin, they will be 1/8th or so too narrow.
Let me know if you need any more measurements,I have mine on the bench about ready to rivet the rails in.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/yN7RJwQkhaBeHiBl2

I think you'd have a much higher survival rate flying controlled into trees than water. Trees and wings absorb a lot of energy. You'll be busted up but you wont be fighting life and death for your next breath a half second after landing like you are in the water. A water landing is an immediate surv...

My garage is 20x25 with 10 foot ceilings on one side and the other is vaulted to 20 feet. Odd ball ceiling because there is a living space above half the garage. 1 full exterior wall with a window and the wall with two garage doors. The doors and walls are insulated and I spent some time getting rid...

My dad rigged up a forced air heater from a mobile home in his hangar.
He put it on rollers with a separate fuel oil tank and flex ducting to put the heat where he needed it.
That and a big 10x10 shade tent with walls keeps things quite toasty warm in the winter.

David, I've always been in interested in your heater plenum mod in this thread: http://www.cessna170.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=10951&hilit=prior+heater You said that you didn't need to change the butterfly control valve. How much of an improvement did you get with it? And any idea how...

I guess I haven't seen enough baggage doors to be well educated... or maybe I haven't paid close attention to them when I see them. So with this "internal latch" door, do you have to reach around inside to open it? For that matter what is a "latchless" door? What keeps it closed...

My vote is for the late model heater.

This thread is cool enough, long enough running and diverse enough that it could become it's own forum Discussion section.

For the baggage door, it doesn't look very difficult to convert a newer door to latchless. A few extra parts and a re-skin of the door.

I review that thread quite frequently as a refresher read on my own 360 conversion

As you said, it's a wealth of information and photos.
Sometimes I read it just to build enthusiasm for my project. It's nice to see how others have done it before me.

Baking enamel paint often makes it more solvent resistant and durable. I imagine he is just using an incandescent light bulb to warm up the wheel. I have done the same thing on occasion, with good results. I bake parts in the oven at 200 or 250 degrees for an hour whenever possible. Paint comes out...

Sounds like a set of long range tanks I recently bought described as having a dent and a hole :( As my mechanic who is a certified welder said; Anything is fixable but is everything worth fixing? There is no approved method that I know of to seal a corroded tank as you describe and my experience wit...

I got mine out of a bone yard from a wrecked bird with a float kit.

Does anyone have a set of drawings/documentation to install a float kit in a 170?
I have all the parts collected but no supporting paperwork just yet.

Not a bad time to have a good look at the control cables and pulleys.
My 170 only has 1400 hours TT but both rudder cables had lots of broken wires at the rear fairlead. The only way to really check them is to get them out of the fairlead and give them a bend. Had a few seized pulleys too.

Ahh, the excitement of opening a fresh can of worms.
I'm entering the second year of my one year project and I still think I'm a year away from finishing it.
Are you just re-skinning the tops?