The International Cessna 170 Association

I think you're right, Thanks!

Needing to clean out some things from my hangar and need help identifying this cowl set so I can try and sell it.
Thanks Scott

Going to revive this old thread with the hopes of getting a picture of the bracket that was described to eliminate the kinking of the (pull) stater cable wire. Mine broke right at the starter lever and have the new one installed, ready to connect to the starter and would like to see what can be done...

I went with Del's suggestions and they work perfectly. I actually threaded a 10-32 screwed backward onto new anchor nut and then screwed it into the one on the floor to use as a jig to drill them out. After drilling out the side one I fished a piece of safety wire through the top rivet hole and out ...

1950 170A, 2 of the 4 anchor nuts, the forward and RH ones, that hold the rear seat in are stripped. It looks like the seat tracks and floorboard would all have to be removed to gain access to the forward anchor nuts' rivets, and the right, rear seat bracket would have to be removed to to buck in a ...

I just had the same problem with the replacement lower flap cable being too long. So, I thought I'd pass along what I learned. I have a 1950 Cessna 170A, s/n 19519. I ordered, from McFarlane, the p/n (MC)0510105-5 as our Cessna manual shows, and got a cable 5-6 inches longer than the original. While...

Yep, that's it. Thanks George

I know that these SBs aren't actually required, though I think it's important that everyone at least know they're out there. Which was my intent, not to tell everyone to do them. Also, I think it important that everyone knows to keep a little closer eye on the carb for any of the indications listed ...

While troubleshooting a slow leak in my carburetor, I came across Precision's Mandatory Service Bulletin MSA-13 "Replacement of Carburetor Floats With New Foam Floats" dated 1/30/2008. It replaced MSA-1 from 1990 which got rid of the old composite floats. It requires all floats to be updat...

I got out to the hanger today and used the troubleshooting info -thanks George! At first I found high field resistance at the pin and alternator so desided to change out all the VR wires(they're the only wires I haven't replaced yet besides the + batt cable which will be next!). After replacing the ...

My conversion appears to have been done via a field approval back in '76. It used Cessna drawing 0500062, which is for a 172I. All components - master switch, cicuit breakers, noise filter, and wire are new, but I'll check any for resistance in the the curcuits. Maybe a new style solid state VR woul...

I've been following Abe's topic, but I have a similar but different problem. I have a 60A alternator/ammeter, and have just totally rewired the plane(be nice! :D ). The ammeter pulses only with the engine running and does show a charge. It does do it without anything turned on. The frequency of the ...

Abe, have you solved your problem yet? Mine is doing the same thing. Maybe George and others can help. I have a 60A alternator/ammeter, and have just totally rewired the plane(so I know that's not the problem :D ). The ammeter only pulses with the engine running and does show a charge. It does it wi...

Bruce, no there's no pin or slot. It's a totally different style. The nut, which is not knurled, it's a hex nut, has internal theads that threads on the shaft screw into. The threads are quite coarse, probably 8 or 10 pitch, though there is only a couple theads, are just below/behind the knob. I'll ...

I have a primer which has a threaded nut and plunger shaft instead of the slotted nut and key to keep it in. Is this, I hope, even original, and if so, use the same o-rings. I haven't yet attempted disassembly except for removal of the nut, which does not allow for removal of the plunger. It's on a ...