The International Cessna 170 Association

Welcome to the forum, somehow I think your engine may not be producing as much power as your flight mates but as George mentioned it could be a sum of issues. I know when I first had my plane with a high time continental, it ran smooth. When I went to overhaul it I found a cam lobe pretty much worn ...

I’ve found in the past, somethings come down to an individuals physical differences, as in thin hands, long fingers and more twistable tongues. Creating the floating doubler nut plate certainly makes things easier.

Acorn in YEG is a good outfit, they rebuilt my engine mount and I had good dealings with them. Asking them to produce a new one would of course be an illegal act on their part to do so. Its a shame given the age of our aircraft and the state of GA that a licensed AME using certified parts cannot mai...

Aside from location, I think all the holes need to be reamed to size to avoid another crack.

I would reuse that part using plenty of grease / antiseize on the through bolt, but I sometimes tend to have Scottish tendencies.

I thought the association might have the Avcon engine conversion docs in the library but when I found their listings the hyperlinks didn’t work, so Bruce or George might know the real story there. There’s purportedly a controls installation doc which might shed light but like some of early conversio...

Mine is very similar, i’ve routed it a bit more forward and away from the engine mount ( mine a 0-320 Doyn not a 360 ). I don’t think you have a problem unless of course the control isn’t smooth. I believe the Del-Air conversion C/S control routing is the same.

I think it makes sense that there’s a loop in many 170 conversions. The governor (at least on my Lycoming is mounted on the rear case close to the firewall) operating lever to which the cable attaches is at right angles to the dash panel hence the push pull (inline with respect to the longitudinal a...

Well, my rear spar brackets are broken You mean more than just the right side? Taking the rudder off is easy, don’t lose the hardware or the bottom rudder attach bushing. Before you remove the stab get a straight rod and sight the hinge points to see whether they are aligned, (if you are in town yo...

Not a bad situation, the rudder will have to come off, but then you’re at it. Not sure about that washer (its corroded for one) may not be a NAS (it looks too wide) but like Gary mentioned I’d clean it up first as it appears the crack/ scratch/ mark or also goes into the skin at the forward edge whi...

I would think there’s a bunch of old cases available too, heck I’ve got two gathering sawdust in the garage.

Didn’t want to disturb the flow Wolf with a comment. I’ve got a few pics of Montana from altitude but they never do it justice. Have always looked forward and enjoyed that portion of my trips. I often deviated from my route to take in another valley / ridge hoping to see wildlife or to just for the ...

Have a look to see if the part number is stamped into the metal on the mounting flange of the pump.

I wouldn’t use stainless. Reese will likely find out how hard these screws are to remove if they have been in there for some time. Should the heads deform on removal, drilling them out would be easier if they are just plain steel. Of course opening panels / trailing edge and spraying your favourite ...

Missed seeing and being in Ron and Connie’s company over the last few conventions. Hope their plane finds a good home.